Les Bans – 3669 m

From the Pilatte hut at 2,577 m, climb up the glacier (cable access). Head for a rocky knoll, then turn left to reach a flat area. Head south up the main slopes to reach the Col Est des Bans. From the col (3,351 m), join the ridge leading to the Col ouest des Bans (snow and rock, easy mixed).

From the col ouest, follow the ridge to the foot of a large gendarme. Turn left at the gendarme; continue along the ridge over purple rocks. Climb a steeper wall (3b, 2 pitons), then head for a clearly visible gap via a slab (3b, 2 pitons). Then join a couloir to finish the climb. Same route on the way down. Watch out for the two rappels. On the way down, skirt around the gros gendarme on the right. From summit to refuge: 3 h.

1st ascent: Christian Almer, father and son with William Coolidge, 1878.
Topo - maps : IGN 3436 ET Meije Pelvoux.
Guide du haut Dauphiné Massif des Ecrins Tome III, F.Labande.
Difficulty: IV, PD+.
Day 1: parking lot to refuge: 3h
2nd day: from refuge to refuge and back: 11h.

CULTURE
PROFILE - Swiss guide Christian Almer
He was already a guide with the Zermatt company when he met Whymper, the famous English mountaineer and watercolorist. Together they made numerous ascents and first ascents, including the Aiguille Verte in 1865. Then he met Coolidge, and this was the start of a 17-year climbing partnership. In 1874, Almer inaugurated a first winter ascent of the Jungfrau in January, a real feat for the time given the equipment available.

In 1885, Almer froze his feet during a winter run, marking the end of his prodigious guiding career. "A more loyal heart and a firmer foot could not be found in the Alps." Whymper.

Warning: access to and visits to La Bérarde (Saint-Christophe-en-Oisans) are strictly forbidden until further notice > Saint-Christophe-en-Oisans municipal by-law, dated 22/06/2024.