La Dibona

La Dibona vue du refuge du Soreiller

La Dibona vue du refuge du Soreiller ©Refuge du Soreiller©Eric Beallet_0003

Refuge du Soreiller et la Dibona

Refuge du Soreiller et la Dibona ©Refuge du Soreiller©Eric Beallet_0005

La Dibona Is a huge rock of granite pointing up into the pure Oisans mountain air that attracts mountaineers from all over the world. Climbing on the sound rock of this elegant 300 m pyramidal monolith is varied, subtle and always hugely pleasurable.

About : La Dibona

From August 10 to September 1, 2024: Free shuttle service
Bourg d'Oisans/St Christophe en Oisans bus station: departures at 7:30 a.m. and 5:30 p.m.
St Christophe en Oisans/Bourg d'Oisans bus station: departures at 8:15 a.m. and 6:15 p.m.
For more information, click on the Vénéon shuttle information sheet at the bottom of the page.

Pedestrian access St Christophe :
At the foot of the Venosc gondola, walk down to the Bourg d'Arud bridge and join the path to Plan du Lac. At the white-water base, follow signs for Le Puy / Saint Christophe en Oisans.

The RD530 leading to the Vénéon valley is closed to vehicular traffic, from the intersection with the RD1091 (at Clapier d'Auris) to the hamlet of Les Étages (Saint-Christophe-en-Oisans), via Venosc (Les Deux Alpes).
> Prefectoral decree, dated 03/07/24 (repealing the decree of 01/07/24)


Climbing these granite slabs in 14 or 15 pitches is an epoch in the life of a mountaineer.
The south face, the most attractive and also the most crowded, is a fine climb. The summit is reached via a combination of routes: the Madier direct south face route, the Boell normal south face route, the Berthet variant and the Stofer variant.
The Madier route, 50 years old and still going strong, has been partially re-equipped (belays on bolts, 2 points per pitch). The top of the Madier crack has been damaged, and the 5C has become a fairly committed 6A. A large friend needs to be installed.
Descend via Angelo Dibona's route, 2 or 3 abseils.
1st ascent: South Face by A. and J. Boell, A le Ray in 1935.
Topo - maps : TOP 25 3436 ET Meije Pelvoux.
"Oisans nouveau, Oisans sauvage" west book, Jean-Michel Cambon
Difficulty: D (Berthet-Boell route), TD (Madier route)
Duration: 6 hours
CULTURE: Angelo Dibona, Portrait
Angelo Dibona (1879-1956) was one of the best guides of his generation. He opened major routes on La Meije and in the Dolomites. This exceptional climber, a forerunner of modern climbing, was above all fond of big faces. During his heyday between 1908 and 1914, he was to be found everywhere from the Dauphiné to Mont-Blanc. In 1913, on June 27, in wintry conditions, he candidly climbed Pain de Sucre du Soreiller in 3sup, a needle considered impassable at the time, and which, after years of controversy, became known as Dibona. At the age of 37, Angelo Dibona offered himself the normal route... The "Devil of the Dolomites" left for other Alpine adventures, leaving his name to this emblematic Oisans needle.

Welcome: Mountaineering is the ascent of mountains that requires special equipment to climb over rock, ice or cliffs.

Rating: Two aspects are considered in the rating of mountaineering, the technical difficulty and the altitude and duration. The + or - refines the rating in each category.
F / Easy
PD / Not Very Difficult
AD / Quite Difficult
D / Difficult
TD / Very Difficult
ED / Extremely Difficult
ABO / Abominably Difficult

Equipment: Harness, mountain boots, helmet, crampons, ice axe, 100m abseiling rope, belays and friends, quickdraws, ice screws, self-locking device, headlamp, altimeter watch. Equipment can be rented in many sports shops.

Contact the mountain professionals in Oisans. Full list on http://www.montagne-oisans.com/montagne-alpes-sejours-20.html

Opening

From 01/06 to 30/09 : open daily.

Prices

Free of charge

This service provider also offers

Mountain hut le Soreiller

Mountain hut le Soreiller

Location supplement

From Bourg d'Oisans, take the RD 1091 towards Briançon and then turn right onto the D530 to "Saint-Christophe - La Bérarde". Park on the left in Les Etages (after Saint Christophe) and follow the path up to the Refuge du Soreiller (1100 m height gain / around 3 hours).