Home La Pisse Lazuli
South-facing and with views over the Meije, the Pisse waterfall route offers ideal climbing conditions. In this microclimate, grasshoppers and lizards thrive among the mass of lavender plants and summer flowers.
The climb is right next to the waterfall that gushes out from the Emparis plateau at a height of 1500m. For this reason, it should not be atempted after a storm. The line follows slabs on strong, gripping schist. The fittings are in good condition. 10 pitches are required to complete the route. The first pitch is right next to the waterfall, the following ones go off to the left, and then from the fifth pitch onwards, you are back next to the water. The last two pitches are the most difficult (the rock is not in such good condition but is well equipped), where you have to tackle the 6/Ao that finally leads to a meadow on the summit. The best way down is on foot. Walk towards the Refuge des Clots and then follow the GR50 footpath. The other option is 7 rappels of 45 m, but this is not recommended as the rock is not great and you may get the rope stuck... The 3 first ones are to the west of the route.
Opened in 1992 by JM Cambon and Patrick Correard.
Period : from april to november
Map : Top 25 3336 T Les 2 Alpes
Height gain : 300 m, 10 pitches
Difficulty : quite hard D+, 5+
Time : 5 to 7 hours
CULTURAL INFORMATION - The Emparis Plateau :
The origin of the name is Celtic, with 'Par' meaning 'exposed to the sun'. In the dampest parts, the plateau is filled with an aromatic plant called sweetgrass that is used in Central Europe to flavour vodka, that is, of course, more famoustly known as bison grass. This mysterious plateau, wich resembles the Steppes and the Arctic tundra, is a vast sunny balcony well situated opposite the rock and ice chaos of the Meije. This exceptional site has been listed and protected since 1991.
From Bourg d'Oisans, take the RD 1091 towards Briançon. 4 km after the Chambon dam, stop at the acr park just under the waterfall. A 15 minute walk takes you to the foot of the waterfall.
La Pisse Lazuli